BucketEars - Assemble to make 3D boat
An old boat building proverb from my good buddy Tim Webber: Starving a joint of glue is a shame. A 50% loss of glue is perfectly acceptable, and easily mopped up with paper towels. I took that advice to heart, and whenever I glue, I really pour it on, especially since it is so cheap. Like $14 for a gallon of Titebond II.
Because the chine logs are on the inside of the sides, I notched the corners of the bulkheads to fit between the framing logs. I slathered on lots of glue, and clamped the bulkheads in place, then drove several screws in each.
I squared up the hull as best I could, then drove in a couple of temporary braces. It is only 2 sticks and 4 screws, but these diagonal sticks holds everything in place so I can attach the bottom. The sticks are later removed just before that section of the bottom is nailed on.
I attached on the bow and stern transoms, then sanded all the surfaces that would contact the bottom. You can re-check that the hull is square by measuring diagonally across the the corners. The length between opposite corners will be the same when measuring both sides.
I have made similar sized boats entirely of 3/8" plywood and that was overkill, made the boat a lot heavier. I have been on a number of home made boats from other people that use 1/4" plywood for their bottoms, and they all "oil can" (flex on the water).
So for me, I prefer to use 1/4" thick plywood for everything except, I use 3/8" for the bottom. The 3/8" bottom adds extra stiffness and impact strength, but not that much added weight.
Because the majority of the rocker curve is at the stern, you need to attach the stern first. Then you glue and nail the bottom as you go forward. The weight of the plywood helps make the bend, and if you nail every few inches as you bend the plywood, you can get the bottom on pretty easily.
The picture shows a neat trick if you are working alone, I propped one end of the plywood with a stick so I could drive screws into the stern. After the stern was screwed around the perimeter, I removed the stick and the weight of the plywood curved itself forward.
Don't forget to mark where the bulkheads are on the outsides, so when the bottom is laid on, the nails or screws you drive will land into the chine logs of the bulkhead.
And here she is !!!!
Time to add the stringers, these are long skinny boards that run lengthwise on the hull. They stiffen up the hull so as you are sailing, the bottom won't flex as much. This is called oil canning. They also protect the bottom from when you drag her up on a boat ramp, or on a beach.
The way to install the stringers is easy -- just mark where they go, put a LOT of glue there, and drive screws through the stringers into the bottom to hold them in place.
After the glue is cured, remove the screws, and glue a toothpick in the hole. After that glue is cured, sand it flush.
